Cruising through Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh, is not a task for the faint-hearted. It offers opportunities for danger, excitement, boredom, not to mention a test for the limits of your patience and/or bladder. The streets are a jumble of vehicles, all packed together. The traffic on busy days is rather like a jigsaw puzzle, which means you would cram your vehicle in any space that fits. A recent attempt by the government to improve the roads and rules have helped matters, but only just.

Rickshaws

To start with, the most common (and cheapest) form of transport is the rickshaw. It's basically a tricycle made of beaten tin, pulled by one man, with seats for two people at the back. A foldable hood is placed at the back for unstable weather conditions. In the event of rain, the puller, upon request, will hand over a waterproof piece of canvas which can be used to keep one's feet dry. The rickshaw doesn't have any suspension whatsoever and every pothole, bump or speed breaker on the road will be felt. The fare is set beforehand and a little haggling is necessary. You must know exactly where you are heading and how far you will have to go, because the pullers can and will overcharge. The pullers believe that road rules do not apply to them and swerve across whenever the fancy takes them, without concern for safety. However, in a city consisting of more alleys than roads, rickshaws are the perfect solution for short and middle distances.

Tuk Tuks, Baby Taxis, Mishuks, CNGs, Helicopters (??)

Tuk Tuks are very common in Asia and especially so in Bangladesh, as they are the principal means of covering long distances within city limits. Tuk Tuks are three-wheeled taxis which run on fuel. However, due to various economic issues, the Tuk Tuks in this country have evolved, acquiring some unusual names along the way. The first Tuk Tuks in the country were black with a yellow canvas topping. They ran on petrol and would charge accordingly. The unusual bit is their name. Due to their rather reduced body, they were called 'Baby Taxis'. The way to go about calling them, would be standing on the side of the road and shouting in a loud clear voice 'Oi Baby!' Riding them was certainly not boring. If the constant teeth-jarring or the loud noise of the engine weren't enough, the driver's wild swerves and turns would certainly keep you amused for the entire duration of the journey. They were unsafe in the way anyone would assume a three-wheeled vehicle to be: extremely unstable.

The second model is a more fuel-efficient version. They are painted green and have spoke wheels. Like their predecessor, they do not have any meters and price haggling is necessary. They are called Mishuks and derive their name from a children's mascot somewhat akin to Bambi. For an unknown reason, this model was built slightly smaller, so on top of the regular jerking, you would be sitting cramped into a space unfit for humans. They can still be seen around Dhaka and other cities in Bangladesh.

Due to recent advancements in technology, the huge supply of natural gas found under Bangladesh was utilised for a more economically efficient task. It became the more common form of fuel. Petrol engines were modified and are now powered by Converted Natural Gas (CNG). As a consequence, Baby Taxis were banned from the city limits and the new Tuk Tuks, which ran on gas, were launched. These are more efficient, spacious and safe, having been built with a low center of gravity. They are also painted green, and are called CNGs (after their fuel source). Each one has a meter built in as standard, although the drivers will attempt to argue for a price slightly higher than the meter shows.

A fourth version of the Tuk Tuk can be seen nowadays. They mostly operate outside Dhaka on the highways and are built to carry more than six or seven passengers. Featuring a small motor like the one that is used to run boats, they are called… Helicopters! The reason for the name given to them by the people who employ it, is unknown.

Taxis

Taxis in Dhaka come in three different colours and classes. There is the yellow cab, which is the most expensive and is equipped with air conditioning. These are usually Toyota Sedans or station wagons; being owned by private firms, they can be hailed on the road or by phone. The second class of taxis are painted blue. They do not have air conditioning and charge slightly higher than the third class of taxis.

The third class of taxis are the most notorious of the group. They are painted black. They consist solely of the economy hatchbacks produced by Maruti, an Indian firm. Considered to be a menace on the streets, passengers should be careful when employing them. The cars are, for obscure reasons, stripped of all basic modifications, and carry only a meter and some threadbare seats. The dashboard is always patched in places and the whole look of the car suggests 'Warning! Unsafe!' The outside of the cars is no less distressing. The paint is chipped, some have bumpers missing and if at least one wheel is not a mismatched spare then it probably isn't a black cab at all. The drivers only know the basics of driving, which is to start from one destination and stop at another. Everything in between is just fictional and can safely be ignored. They cause most of the auto accidents on the streets.

Oddly enough the blue and black cabs are also referred to as CNGs after their fuel sources.

Trucks and Buses

To ferry goods and merchandise into the capital, enormous trucks are used. This in itself is not a unique thing until one realises exactly what the Bangladeshi trucks are. They are yellow, hulking, roaring masses of metal. The work that goes into building them is slipshod at best and they have an alarming unfinished look about them. In order to prevent road congestion, trucks carrying imported loads are only allowed into Dhaka after midnight. This is the time to be truly wary. Driving through the roads at this time of the night can prove fatal, especially since the trucks have poor headlights and the drivers seem to have even poorer eyesight.

To carry loads of building materials, the trucks are sometimes allowed into the city during daylight. The spectacle of these drivers trying to manoeuvre through the narrow alleys and side streets is truly worth seeing.

Bangladesh has yet to build highways capable of accommodating the 18-wheelers that are predominant on foreign highways. A few enterprising firms have nevertheless attempted to employ a few of these. They have not fared well.

Buses come into a whole other category in Dhaka. The intercity services have only been started fairly recently. As they are allowed in the daylight hours, they dominate the streets. The drivers assume the 'My vehicle is bigger than yours' form of arrogance and many a smaller vehicle can be seen with dents and scratches due to this very reason.

Driving

Now comes the ultimate experience: driving in Dhaka! As mentioned earlier, the streets are usually gridlocked. If you do not fit your vehicle in the nearest available space, some enterprising CNG, rickshaw or car will nose in and manage to keep you from moving... ever. The next vehicle will be a hair's breadth behind and an untimely application of the brakes will probably result in a domino effect. Pedestrians are probably the worst enemy any driver may expect. For one thing they assume a car will stop for them, even if said car is going at a 100 plus (km). The only time the police will pull you over is if they are running short on bribes. Beware of larger vehicles. They do not care much for smaller vehicles. Beware of smaller vehicles. They flit back and forth across the lanes to suit their own moods. In other words: beware of anything with wheels or legs on the streets.

Another oddity on the streets of Dhaka is the police. Generally pot-bellied, foul-mouthed and impatient, Dhaka's 'finest' is one of the most corrupt forces on earth. Bribes are easily exchanged and crooks let off the hook. If the police catch you without a driving license, the only thing to be worried about is whether there is enough cash in your wallet to pay them off.