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The South West Coast Path - Brixham to Torquay

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Scenery on the Brixham to Torquay walk.

The South West Coast Path is one of Britain's National Trails and, weighing in at a mighty 1,015km (or 630 miles), is its longest. It covers the whole of the coastline between Minehead in Somerset and Poole in Dorset, and can be tackled as a series of day walks or all in one go. The Entries in this series are suitable for either type of walker. All routes are described in the traditional anti-clockwise direction of travel.

As is the case on much of the coast path, wheelchair users and those with pushchairs and prams will find the going difficult away from the more accessible beaches, mainly due to the steep hills - in fact, the South-west Coast Path has ascents totalling more than three times the height of Everest! Sections of the coastal path can be remote and difficult, and walkers should make sure they have taken sensible precautions in case of an emergency:

  • Let someone know where you are going, and when you expect to be back - and don't forget to contact them on your return to let them know you are safe!

  • Waterproofs, warm clothing, a good map, plenty of water and food are considered essential, even on short walks in good weather.

  • Be extremely careful near cliff edges, especially in windy or wet weather, and remember that your dog (if you have one) may not have the same wariness of danger that you have.

The English Riviera Resorts

This eight-mile section of coast path provides easy walking, is well-connected to public transport and has plenty of convenient refreshment stops. It passes through the three towns of Brixham, Paignton and Torquay; collectively known as Torbay. One of Devon's most popular holiday destinations, Torbay has an extensive coastline, but the downside is that much of it has been developed, especially as it gets further north. This can give the route an odd feel; only the most avid walker would get really excited about it, and the sense of remoteness that can be felt on other sections is largely absent.

Having said that, the relatively good accessibility of the route means that it is an ideal way to see parts of the Bay that the average visitor would not. There are plenty of headlands and beaches to spend time on, and the route is great if you like to explore or take a picnic without going too far. Good picnic sites include the beach at Elberry Cove in Brixham, Goodrington or Roundham Head in Paignton and Hollicombe Beach between Paignton and Torquay. Dog walkers will be fine on much of the route, although it is worth noting that dogs aren't allowed onto many of the more popular beaches between May and September - it is not necessary to cross any of these on the route, but is worth remembering if your dog fancies a run! All of these beaches have prominent signs announcing the exclusion.

More dedicated walkers could quite easily move quickly through the section described here, pushing on to Babbacombe, Maidencombe or even Teignmouth by the end of the day.

Navigation is an occasional issue on this leg: the coast path itself is quite poorly marked, although you are unlikely to get lost. The path mingles freely with other routes used by locals for dog-walking and to access beaches. If in doubt, the old coast path maxim 'if in doubt, take the one nearest the sea' proves good advice in Torbay. The Ordnance Survey map OL20 covers the whole route, and walking maps can be picked up from Tourist Information Centres in any of the three towns.

Much of the coastline here is managed by Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, Torbay's own local conservation charity.

Getting There

Let's be honest here; this isn't a section of the coast path you should travel great distances for. Unless you're already in the Bay or are walking it as part of a longer section of path, there are more spectacular walks on either side. If you're already in the Bay, the easiest way to get to/from the start is by the number 12 bus, which runs from Newton Abbot, through Torquay and Paignton to Brixham. It travels within a short distance of the whole of the route described here.

The South

Starting at the Tourist Information Centre on Brixham harbour, follow the promenade around to the left (as you look out to sea). You'll pass Brixham Fish Market on the right, which is one of the most important in Britain in terms of the value of the catch. After leaving the harbour, the pavement becomes a long, flat, concrete path with good views over to Brixham breakwater and across Torbay. The path rises up a flight of steps to Battery Gardens, a World War II battery now made into a small park. After another flight of steps we find Fishcombe Cove and the first beach café of the walk! Although it is possible to cross the rocky beach at low tide, it is much easier to take the road a few dozen metres and turn right along the route of the official path - this is one point at which the route is not well-signposted. The path drops down through some woods to the other side and crosses Churston Cove on the other side of the inlet - a good place for seal-spotting.

The path climbs steeply and enters Marriage Woods, a thin strip of semi-ancient woodland filled with old lime kilns and ruins. Be careful here; there are some precipitous drops to the right. After a mile or so, the path suddenly comes out at Elberry1 Cove, a pleasant shingle beach. It's worth stopping here to skim some stones and relax for a while; this is about as 'far away from it all' that you're going to get.

From here, the path rises once again and follows the seawards edge of Churston Golf Club. The huge and attractive sandy beach at Broadsands soon comes into view, with its beach huts and café. In the summer, the beach here is heaving with holidaymakers from nearby caravan parks. At the end of the beach, turn left on the gravel path to pass under a viaduct and at the top of the hill turn right and upwards once more. Out of sight to the right is Saltern Cove, a nature reserve, and buzzards can often be seen spectacularly hovering low here, oblivious to the walkers just a few metres below. If you time it right, you can get great views of the steam trains of the Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway puffing past, too.

The North

Goodrington Sands, the next beach, marks not just the halfway point of the walk but also represents a shift in atmosphere. A few minutes earlier, you can watch raptors glide and swoop knowing that town is close by, but on arriving at the beach it seems clear that things are about to change. From here onwards, you're in the resorts. That's not necessarily a bad thing; in the summer there are snack bars and ice-creams, and there is a pub on the beach too. Formerly an admiralty hospital, the Inn on the Quay is in a superb setting, but the food and service often receive mixed reviews. Once you've resisted or succumbed to whatever vices you may hold, head up the Headland in front of you and turn right to follow the sea. The headland, Roundham Head, is managed by the Coast and Countryside Trust, and is perhaps the only conservation site in the country to be almost entirely dominated by a pitch-and-putt course.

The path now descends to Paignton harbour, ducks through a tunnel between some buildings and comes out on Paignton's long promenade. If you've got time, there is a pier here with amusement arcade and games and plenty of places to get a snack; the green often has fairs and events in the summer, and the pubs on the road opposite are good for a pint or a spot of lunch.

The path carries on to Preston beach and takes in another gentle rise, with good views back over the route. Carry on into Hollicombe park - there is a nice diversion to the beach, or a duckpond if you have any sandwiches left - exit the gates and turn right along Torbay Road. For the last mile and a half, you're on the main road.

It's a pleasant enough walk, but coast path aficionados may struggle to see the point of walking down the main inter-town road. A pleasant diversion is Corbyn Head, just before the start of Torquay's main promenade. In 1944, five members of the Home Guard were killed here when their anti-aircraft gun exploded; the event is now marked with a memorial. Reaching Torquay's main beach, Torre Abbey Sands, there is at least a chance to walk on the beach if the tide is low, and after that the main promenade loops away from the road, but the sound of traffic does take the edge off. Pass the pier, marina and Victorian Pavilion and finally arrive at the harbour for that all-important refreshing drink!

If you're based in Paignton or Brixham, the return bus leaves from the end point of the walk on the Strand.

1Sometimes spelled 'Elbury'.

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