Casablanca is Morocco's biggest city, but Rabat is its capital. At first, Rabat appears to be quite small. However, Rabat's suburbs spread out a long way, although most of these are not very interesting. Many tourists will focus instead on the area around Avenue Mohammed V, near to which you'll find the Medina¹ and the Kasbah². Travellers will also be drawn to the area of the city known as Agdal with its shops, cafés and restaurants.

Politics

Morocco has a monarchy and Moroccans hold the king in great esteem. The king lives in Rabat and if you're in the city for a few weeks, you'll notice the commotion caused when he travels around. Moroccans will gladly discuss with visitors their political system and the challenges facing their developing country.

People

Moroccans are usually very friendly and will try their best to understand your stammering French. Rabat does not have as many beggars and hustlers as the country's other major cities, and walking around the city is generally not a problem.

Most Moroccans are Muslims and practice their religion in a relaxed fashion. The two-hour lunch break is, however, strictly observed by most, and shops, banks and offices will often close at 12 o'clock. Many may not open again until 3 o'clock.

To the outsider, it seems that the exact dates of public holidays are not decided until one or two days beforehand, but public holidays are, in fact, determined by the Muslim lunar calendar. This means that holidays do not land on a particular set date, but occur on a new date every year.

Warnings

• When walking around the typical tourist spots, women should watch out for the henna-women. They will have decorated your hands with henna before you can blink.

• Also, it's likely that you'll be offered the local marijuana called kif. This is illegal. The police will probably suspect that your pouch of normal tobacco is marijuana, so save yourself some trouble and buy ready-rolled cigarettes.

Traffic

The traffic rules in Rabat appear to be quite flexible. You will notice that:

• It is apparently legal to run the red light, if you're turning right
• A two-lane street can easily carry three and even four cars abreast
• After dark, traffic lights are ignored

On the freeway you will discover that mule-driven carts, mules and pedestrians will gladly use the freeway, so be vigilant, especially at night, as traffic law does not require vehicles travelling at less than 20kph to have any lights.

The best thing that can be said about the traffic is that even though there are four cars between you and a side road, you will be able to wriggle you car through the passing traffic and reach it without too much trouble.

The Police

There are a lot of police in Rabat, especially at intersections. If you violate some rule or other, they will happily fine you 400MAD³, but will be very helpful if you are lost or find yourself in another predicament.

Things to See and Do

• The Kasbah is worth a visit. The view you get of the Bou Regreg river is beautiful. The garden's lovely too. You can sip traditional Moroccan mint tea in the café there, while enjoying the view of Sale⁴ and the activity on the beach below with its circular waves and surfers.

• The Chellah, Rabat's ancient city wall, should not be missed.

• There are a number of good golf courses in and around Rabat, the biggest of which is the Royal course in Dar Es Salam. It has 45 holes.

• The Medina is mostly open and friendly with the exception of the southeastern end, which can be a bit rough. You will easily find your way in and out of the Medina, you won't really need a guide.

• The Hassan Tower is the unfinished tower for a large unfinished mosque, which lies next to the Mausoleum. A visit to both is worthwhile and won't take long.

• Rabat does not have particularly good beaches, but Plage de Nations 15km north of Rabat is a pleasant location and has good surfing waves.