Halfway between Sweden's capital, Stockholm, and the historical Finnish city of Turku, at the western end of the Finnish archipelago, lie the Åland islands.

Åland (pronounced rather like Awe-land) means River Country. The Finnish name, Ahvenanmaa, means Perch Country, after the fish that can be caught here.

Facts and Figures

Autonomy

Åland, while being officially part of Finland, is an autonomous state. Their parliament is known as the
Lagting*.
While Åland does not crave independence, they do fiercely stick up for their individuality in the political arena, at both Finnish and EU levels.

Duty Free

As the economy of the islands depend heavily on income from Duty Free/Tax Free goods, the Ålands are a rare exception in the EU in that Duty Free can be sold there.

Baltic Sea ferry companies make a point of stopping at Mariehamn for this very reason.

War! What is it good for?

There is no military service in Åland, as there is in Finland. After the Paris Peace of 1856, Tsar Alexander declared the Åland islands a demilitarised area.

Culture

History

(See also "Shipping" below)

Finland, to which Åland belongs, gained independance from Russia on the 6th of December, 1917. The Ålanders (Ålänningar, as they call themselves in Swedish) petitioned, unsuccessfully, to join Sweden around this time. Though linked by the archipelago to Finland, Åland lies much closer to Stockholm than it does to Helsinki, in the hearts of the people as well as on the map. The islands are these days semi-autonomous, the self-government building being situated in Mariehamn.

Nevertheless, attitudes towards the rest of Finland are more jovial than resentful. Mainland Finns aren't hated in Åland, merely regarded as foreigners.

Language

The cultural proximity to Sweden shows in the language of the Åland islands. Unlike other Swedish-speaking Finns, the Ålanders do not use many Finnish words in their slang, preferring to simply abbreviate Swedish words. Nor do they share the level pronounciation of the Finns, tending more towards the undulating tone of the Swedes.

If you speak Finnish then the chances are that you are a Finn and will be warned in advance. But for those of you who have gone to the effort of learning Finnish, Åland is a place where you will not get much chance to practice it. The islanders conduct almost their entire lives in Swedish and few are prepared to speak Finnish.

To further clarify, mainland Finnish-Swedes learning Finnish as a second language begin at a higher level than Ålanders, as they are, at least in theory, surrounded by the language in daily life. Ålanders, however, start pretty much at beginner's level, just like any foreigner learning the language.

Architecture

Visitors to the islands will notice a distinct lack of high-rise buildings. One reason given for this is that the fire department don't own ladders that will extend higher than three storeys, so buildings are kept as low as possible.

Those familiar with the works of Lars Sonck will find many examples of his style around Mariehamn, a prime example being St. Görans Church (1927) on Storgatan*.

Overall, Åland has the charming look of rural Scandinavia. Even Mariehamn has an atmosphere of suburban bliss.

Shipping

If you like ships you'll love Mariehamn. The whole island has been more or less dependent on shipping throughout its existence.

Two big names in shipping, August Troberg and Gustaf Erikson, both lived in Mariehamn and had large oceangoing fleets, Erikson once having had the largest fleet in the world.

The Åland Maritime Museum in the Western Harbour* has many exhibits for the enthusiast.

In the Eastern Harbour there's a maritime quarter, featuring a boatyard, smithy and another shipbuilding museum* .

A bite to eat

If you're looking for edible specialities then you can't go wrong with bread and cheese. Simple fare, but the Åland "svartbröd"* and their special cheese are worth tasting. As with all Scandinavian countries, imaginative and tasty fish dishes also feature big on the menus.

Getting there

The main island has an airport some 2 miles or 3km outside Mariehamn.


The most popular way to arrive at the islands, however, is by ferry. The companies Viking Line and Silja Line run regular services (about two a day- decide if you want to travel by night or by day) between Stockholm and Turku, stopping at Åland on the way.

Be warned however that in winter or in seasons of high wind the large ferries may have problems pulling into Mariehamn. You could find yourself landing at or departing from Långnäs, about half an hour's drive away from the main city. Bus services may be provided in these circumstances.

In extreme conditions, the ferries may miss the islands out altogether, so be prepared for an unexpected stay in Stockholm, Turku or Helsinki, depending which way you're travelling.

What to do/see

The city of Mariehamn will offer a day or two's entertainment if you like shopping and shipping. See above. The Åland Museum exhibits the island's history since way back when and also incorporates an art museum.
Lilla Holmen is a small islet off the east harbour containing a park for kids and a jetty.
The Tourist Information Centre is located at Storgatan 8, a couple of doors uphill from the Viking Line ferry agency.


But the best pickings for tourists are beyond the town. By all accounts, Åland is best toured by bicycle.

The islands are divided into sixteen regions, each with its own coat of arms which will be seen on those road signs that say 'You are now entering...'. The regions are known as Brändö, Eckerö, Finström, Föglö, Geta, Hammarland, Jomala, Kumlinge, Kökar, Lemland, Lumparland, Mariehamn, Saltvik, Sottunga, Sund and Vårdö. The 'ö' suffix indicates an island, Åland being an amalgamation of islands rather than a single entity.